Chasing perfection

Dies ist für all die Surfer, ein Artikel, den ich in einem 2 Jahre alten Surfmag in einem Burgerladen in Mooloolaba entdeckt habe:

Like a lot of crew, you’d be forgiven, having sacrificed an hour-and-a-bloody-half to get to a crowed, windblown beach on a Saturday morning, for getting a bit down as your lot as a surfer. Especially when it seems like those pro surfer types get to live in another world, disconnected from the rest of the planet and concerned only with the next crowd-free session in flawless waves.
Of course the reality isn’t quite like that and even Bruce Irons here knows a day like this, with four guys out at smoking Pipeline, is a rare and beautiful thing (you have to imagine that image above the text;). Nobody gets to surf this every day.
But spent enough time surfing all conditions, and if you’re lucky, and with enough hours in the water, you’ll be able to find perfect moments in whatever you see in front of you.
Good surfers turn into great ones through this sort of approach, through making the most of every surf.
Perfect days don’t happen often, but there’s always some sort of perfection to be found in any session that’s worth hunting for.

Und ein Zitat von Jason Reposar, Surffotograf mit turbulentem Leben:
I’m a big fan of living life. Whether it’s good or bad is God’s concern, mine is to make the most out of what’s right in front of me.